West Highland Way Day 2 (Balmaha to Inverarnan)

There's a few stiff legs in the morning but everyone's up and about, had breakfast and just before leaving we have a brieg chat with Jock the owner of the Balmaha Bunkhouse.  Jock is an ex-squaddie who bought the bunkhouse around 8 months ago and has made some subtle changes.  Jock's intention is to bring groups in for team building exercises, among other things and grow the business although he does want to keep it suitable for walkers as well.  Strangely, before leaving our friend the Robin appears almost as if it's following us along the way.  Now of course it is possible it's a different Robin however it's nice to think it's that same one wishing us luck.  We left Balmaha and there is a short sharp climb to begin with and a change in the terrain.  The ground was now rougher than the previous day and the route is very up and down along the banks of Loch Lomond.  Some of the views along here are absolutely amazing.

The route took us into Sallochy woods where we really started to feel the calf burn as there is some steep steps and gravel.  Even I started to get a bit of a sweat on at this point.  We came through some sparce woods with a fair amount of downhill walking before arriving at the Rowerdennan Hotel.  We stopped for lunch here.  Now the hotel is well known and completely in isolation as the road in comes to an end at this point so cars can't travel any further along the loch this way.  I think the hotel considers itself exclusive because I ordered a latte and 2 cans of Irn Bru and was charged £6.50.  To be honest the latte wasn't that good.  Not wanting to smell the place out we went into the back garden which has a nice view of the loch and, along with ducks, finches and tits the robin joined us again.  We had all made a few rolls which we started to eat but were informed by Steve (manager/owner) of the hotel that we couldn't eat our own food on the premises.  Fair enough but when Gerard went inside and asked for a Mocha, firstly no one had any idea what one was (strange givent he very expensive coffee making facilities they have) but when Gerard explained what it was he got told he could have a cappuccino.  Steve then got very upset at us spending money at his establishment and refused to serve us.  Steve must have got up on the wrong side of the bed that day however due to this he gained the name Steve the ......(a male chicken).  This amused us for the rest of the walk however I am keen to ensure people who want good service know that this is not a place to visit.

 

We got going again across so rough ground with lots of up and down trekking along the way which is pretty sore on the feet.  Gerard had changed into his ninth pair of socks having took a punt on e-bay, purchasing 7 pairs of Merino wool socks for £6.50 or something.  We were all a bit dubious but in fairness he changed his socks more than his pants, fell in love with compede but only had one small blister by the end of the walk.  Obviously we've all now got the e-bay sellers details.  Walking along the banks of Loch Lomond through some woods we heard a noise on the hill and we nearly jumped out of our skins when these lot appeared.

Most people who have walked the way will have read the memorial shown below and maybe even wondered about the story behind it.  I managed to find out about poor old Bill Lobban and we all took time to add to the stack in honour of Bill. 

 

While looking at the memorial Martin had got talking to a chap, also walking the way by the name of Lou.  We stopped to chat to Lou for a bit who, being an experienced walker had also walked the Comino (St. James' Way).  Something Gill dreams about doing and if you're not sure what it is, watch the film The Way with Martin Sheen. If you want to read about poor old Bill you can take a look at this link (click on Bill's name): Bill Lobban

 

After several miles of whinging (mostly by Martin) about sore feet we are greeted by the welcome site of the Inversnaid hotel.  We crossed the bridge and sat on the benches outside before going in to get a well earned cup of tea.  I had a vin rouge with Martine, Chateau Nerf du Plonk I think.  This hotel was outstanding and is highly recommended as a place to stop.  The difference between here and the Rowerdennan is astronomical.  Very happy to help us, let us fill water bottles up, brought the drinks out to us and fairly priced.  Before leaving the Inversnaid hotel we were talking with a fella that said we'd be puching it to make it to Inverarnan in the light if we were just leaving because of the ground and the distance.  Some of us laughed him off as a bit mental but Gill confirmed, having researched that this was probably the hardest part of the way.  I will not doubt people again.  Up to this point this section was by far the hardest.  Boots are a must I would say as it would be very easy to hurt and ankle on this section.  Gerard and Brigi had powered on to ensure we would get fed and the rest of us arrived later, using head torches with slightly less light than expected.  We all got fed in the bar at the Beinglas Farm where we were staying.  The bar was great, with live music by Robert Carmichael.  Robert was a folk singer that had a go at any requests, the Jam, ACDC and Gill's favourite the Eagles.  The facilities at Beinglas are superb, hot showers, toilets, bar, food, cabins, shop and breakfast facilities.  Absolutely perfect for walkers and obviously designed for this.  If you have the legs for it you can always visit the Drovers Inn, across the road.  We didn't have the energy as it had been a long day.  You can see by Martin's strained smile how he was really feeling.  You can also see the cabins we stayed in behind.

I have to give a special mention to the bar staff at Beinglas.  The service was outstanding and when I dropped my knife, through exhaustion and not my clumsiness, it had barely hit the floor before the barman replace it.  If i'm ever in this area again I will definitely be using Beinglas Farm.