Wednesday, 24 April 2013

West Highland Way Day 4 (Bridge of Orkey to Kinlochleven)

We all woke with the now familiar whinging about aching limbs, blisters and sore feet but everyone's mood was lifted by breakfast at the hotel.  All the walkers were wishing each other luck for the day ahead.  My hat goes off to the women who we had passed the day before who had twisted her knee on her first day of walking and was still going at this point and about to head out again.  We left the hotel, uphill for a change into a wooded area.  After a short gentle climb we followed a gradual descent to the Inveroran hotel.  There was a great scene here as Martin was hand feeding a wild hind deer.  A stag, not happy at this stuck it's antlers around the corner and Martin had it on his toes before the stag was able to invite him for a rut.

Martin's mate
 
There was a bit of a road walk before we arrived at Forest Lodge which looks un-inhabited but has a sky dish in the garden.  The building looks as though it could do with some pebble dashing but it's quite a size.  We paused for 5 minutes and read some information about Thomas Telford who built, among others the road we were about to take.  In his infinite wisdom, Thomas had built roads in the highlands that had a much more gradual ascent and descent compared to the previous roads which must have been nice for the locals and the horses. 
While I admire what mr Telford achieved and understand all the hard work that went into laying the road, brick by brick it didn't exactly agree with our plates(feet).  Gentle up and downs for 10 miles with some of the most breathtaking views on the walk so far.  We were definitely in the highlands now and at one point we were entirely surrounded by white capped mountains. The King's house hotel came into view, in the distance nestled amongst some pine trees but was still some way off and we wasn't getting there in a hurry.  We came past the Glencoe ski centre, crossed the road onto the tar track which led down to a couple of houses before arriving at the Kings house for lunch. 

3 Beasts - The mountain, the deer and Martine
Hobbits
The food at the king's house is great and the main table has chairs that wouldn't look out of place in a scene from lord of the rings.  I recommend the paninis.  We left the hotel after speaking with a londoner that was doing the west highland way for the second time and we were talking about the fact we were heading to the Devil's staircase which she informed us was not too bad and that we should be more concerned with what faced us on leaving Kinlochleven.  We didn't think we were going to be allowed to cross the bridge to get back onto the track because it was being guarded by a stag.
None shall pass
We walked the path, etched into the side of the mountain running parallel to the main road before crossing a bridge to the foot of the Devil's staircase.  The walk up wasn't too bad at all with quite a few switch backs but we were at the top quite quickly but it was coming down the hill which caused the most pain.  Plagued by snow and a long long stretch into Kinlochleven we arrived at about 20:30.  The girls went to get the cabins sorted at the McDonald resort while the chaps went and got food from the local chippy.  The chippy wasn't the cheapest and it closed at 9 every night but the food was superb.  Or it might have been due to the fact we were all starving.
Made it
The McDonald resort had cabins which, again were basic but perfect for walkers.  Heaters, power, hot showers, toilets and a bar which we were too zonked to try out.  Martine took exception to having to pay for breakfast the night before.  He was a bit concerned it might be "gash" as he explained to the owner before crawling back to his cabin.  Before crashing for the night everyone showered and tended their wounds.  There was still time for me to make a complete fool of myself after showering.  I flung the door open to what I thought was our cabin however the two startled boys, who'd i'd caught eating sweets were not impressed.  I stood in the door way for a second or two trying to work out who they were before realising my cabin was actually next door.  It was definitely time for bed.

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